Souvenirs
We didn’t do a great job of collecting souvenirs on this trip – mostly because we’d have to carry them. Our general rule of thumb is Christmas ornaments (or key rings that can be turned into Christmas ornaments) and magnets are okay, and postcards but nothing bigger. We did acquire some clothing made out of alpaca wool (2 hats, 2 pairs of socks) and a souvenir t-shirt each (Machu Picchu and Fitz Roy, Patagonia). I also got a water color in Peru and a free poster with our boat tour in Ushuaia. And of course a bottle of Malbec...
Summary & Recommendations
Below is how we ended up spending our trip. We started on Saturday, November 26th, 2011 in Buenos Aires, and flew out of the same airport on Saturday, January 28th, 2012.
Day:
1. Buenos Aires - Arrival
2. Buenos Aires –La Boca and San Telmo Markets
3. Buenos Aires – city walking tour
4. Buenos Aires – Recoleta Cemetary
5. Colonia, Uruguay
6. Colonia, Uruguay
7. Buenos Aires – bike tour
8. Buenos Aires – Tigre Delta
9. Buenos Aires – Palermo markets
10. Fly from Buenos Aires to Quito, Ecuador (via Lima)
11. Quito – walking tour
12. Quito – Viva Quito festival
13. Galapagos
14. Galapagos
15. Galapagos
16. Galapagos
17. Galapagos
18. Quito – Lima flight cancelled
19. Fly to Lima then Cuzco
20. Fly to Puerto Maldonaldo – Amazon
21. Amazon
22. Amazon – fly to Cuzco
23. Cuzco
24. Inca Trail
25. Inca Trail
26. Inca Trail
27. Inca Trail & Machu Picchu
28. Aguas Calientes and Cuzco
29. Cuzco
30. Bus from Cuzco to Puno for Xmas Eve
31. Bus from Puno to Copacabana & Isla del Sol for Xmas
32. Bus to La Paz
33. La Paz – city tour & Valle de Luna
34. La Paz & night bus to Uyuni
35. Salar de Uyuni
36. Salar de Uyuni
37. Salar de Uyuni and into Chile (San Pedro de Atacama) for NYE.
38. San Pedro de Atacama – bike riding
39. San Pedro de Atacama – Laguna Cejas & Valle de Luna
40. Bus San Pedro de Atacama to Calama. Flight to Santiago
41. Santiago
42. Bus Santiago to Mendoza
43. Mendoza – biking to wineries
44. Mendoza – winery tour. Night bus to Neuquen
45. Continue bus trip to Bariloche
46. Bariloche – Circuito Chico trek
47. Barilcohe – Cerro Campenero
48. Bariloche, Argentina to Puerto Varas, Chile
49. Orsono Volcano Hike
50. Fly Puerto Montt to Punta Arenas – Magellen penguins
51. Bus Punta Arenas to Puerto Natales
52. Torres del Paine – W-Trek Day 1
53. Torres del Paine – W-Trek Day 2
54. Torres del Paine – trek day 3
55. Torres del Paine – day 4 Lago Grey & Grey Glacier
56. Bus Puerto Natales, Chile to El Calafate, Argentina
57. Perito Merino Glacier. Bus to El Chalten.
58. El Chalten – Lagunas del los Tres trek
59. El Chalten – Laguna Capri trek
60. El Calafate. Flight to Ushuaia
61. Ushuaia – Cruise on the Beagle Channel
62. Ushuaia – Glacial Martial trek. Flight to Buenos Aires
63. Buenos Aires – Museo Evita.
64. Buenos Aires – Belgrano
65. Buenos Aires. Flight to Sydney.
66. Arrival Sydney.
Tips & Recommendations
Our highlights of the trip were The Galapagos, the Inca Trail, and Patagonia. We didn’t really care for the cities (Buenos Aires, Quito, La Paz).
If I could do it all over again, what would I do differently?
I would’ve spent a few more days in Santiago and do the wine region (Valipariso). Although I love Malbecs, I would’ve skipped Mendoza as I didn't love the town. Ushuaia was nice but you don’t need to go there unless you’re going to Antartica. Maybe skip Lake Titicaca and just fly from Cuzco to La Paz or the next destination. And I wouldn’t do any tours (ie GAP in Patagonia) as South America is very easy to get around and you can do it a lot cheaper on your own. And I would’ve spent a week in El Chalten doing all the hikes and hanging out. Less time in Buenos Aires, Quito and La Paz and I may have tried to fit Rio in for 4 days and then end with a relaxing week on a beach in Brazil. Now, we just have to go back to see Brazil. And maybe Venezuela...
Tracker code
Sunday, January 29, 2012
Saturday, January 28, 2012
Leaving Buenos Aires
Saturday, January 28th, 2012
Today we had to get up at 8am, shower, have breakfast and get a 10am taxi to the International Airport. I’m sad to check out of the wonderful Howard Johnson Boutique Spa in Recoleta and even more sad to go back to Australia. But I think I’ve got some tour fatigue and it will be good to eat home cooked meals, wear new clothes (other than my 1 of my 4 shirts) and not have to pack up our backpack every day or so.
Our taxi driver is driving a new Citron and it’s the nicest taxi we’ve been in – big sunroof, lots of legroom, really roomy. But our driver gets up to 148km/hr and we get to the airport in 20 minutes instead of the standard 45minutes!
Our Qantas flight is supposed to depart at 1:05pm but due to some industrial action (there’s always some in South America) air traffic control says we can’t take off until 2pm. When we finally get to board it’s a new Qantas plane designed inside like the new 380s and we can start watching movies immediately. I watch ‘Our Idiot Brother’ and ‘Real Steel’ then sleep for about 8 hours, and wake up for dinner (breakfast?) and watch ‘The Kings Speech’ and then we land at 7pm (instead of 5:40pm). Mat picks us up from the airport (in our car), and drives us to his house, then we drive home.
Mike didn’t sleep so he’s exhausted and I’m well-rested but we both manage to go to bed at 10:30 and I sleep through until 6am and Mike’s up from 3am. Now we can relax for a day or two and try to get back on Sydney time.
Today we had to get up at 8am, shower, have breakfast and get a 10am taxi to the International Airport. I’m sad to check out of the wonderful Howard Johnson Boutique Spa in Recoleta and even more sad to go back to Australia. But I think I’ve got some tour fatigue and it will be good to eat home cooked meals, wear new clothes (other than my 1 of my 4 shirts) and not have to pack up our backpack every day or so.
Our taxi driver is driving a new Citron and it’s the nicest taxi we’ve been in – big sunroof, lots of legroom, really roomy. But our driver gets up to 148km/hr and we get to the airport in 20 minutes instead of the standard 45minutes!
Our Qantas flight is supposed to depart at 1:05pm but due to some industrial action (there’s always some in South America) air traffic control says we can’t take off until 2pm. When we finally get to board it’s a new Qantas plane designed inside like the new 380s and we can start watching movies immediately. I watch ‘Our Idiot Brother’ and ‘Real Steel’ then sleep for about 8 hours, and wake up for dinner (breakfast?) and watch ‘The Kings Speech’ and then we land at 7pm (instead of 5:40pm). Mat picks us up from the airport (in our car), and drives us to his house, then we drive home.
Mike didn’t sleep so he’s exhausted and I’m well-rested but we both manage to go to bed at 10:30 and I sleep through until 6am and Mike’s up from 3am. Now we can relax for a day or two and try to get back on Sydney time.
Friday, January 27, 2012
Buenos Aires - Belgrano
Friday, January 27th, 2012
Have I mentioned that we love our hotel? It’s the comfy king bed, great puffy pillows, air conditioning and the fact that we have nowhere to be today. We only get up at 9:45 because breakfast closes at 10:30. Even though it’s basically the same type of breakfast we’ve had for 60+ days in South America, our hotel does it better with café lattes and chocolate chip cookies as well!
We unpack and get organized and decide to explore the barrio of Belgrano which we haven’t seen yet. It’s not a must on the tourist sights, but it is easy to get to on our Metro line (from Pueyrredon to Juramento) and has a busy Avenida Cabildo with lots of shopping. We go one block off the busy street to Plaza Belgrano with Iglesia de la Inmaculada Conceptcion (La Redonda because of it’s impressive dome). And we have lunch at a bistro outside.
After lunch we walk to Barrancas de Belgrano which is a park designed by French landscape architect Carlos Thays (although it’s a bit small and basic) and then we walk back on these great streets with shady trees, big old buildings and lots of embassies (Vietnam, Turkey, Austria, etc.)
We get back to Recoleta and walk a bit before calling it a night after our last day in Buenos Aires. I thing we’ve done all the main tourist sights here and have now started appreciating just being in Buenos Aires (and enjoying our nice hotel!)
Have I mentioned that we love our hotel? It’s the comfy king bed, great puffy pillows, air conditioning and the fact that we have nowhere to be today. We only get up at 9:45 because breakfast closes at 10:30. Even though it’s basically the same type of breakfast we’ve had for 60+ days in South America, our hotel does it better with café lattes and chocolate chip cookies as well!
We unpack and get organized and decide to explore the barrio of Belgrano which we haven’t seen yet. It’s not a must on the tourist sights, but it is easy to get to on our Metro line (from Pueyrredon to Juramento) and has a busy Avenida Cabildo with lots of shopping. We go one block off the busy street to Plaza Belgrano with Iglesia de la Inmaculada Conceptcion (La Redonda because of it’s impressive dome). And we have lunch at a bistro outside.
After lunch we walk to Barrancas de Belgrano which is a park designed by French landscape architect Carlos Thays (although it’s a bit small and basic) and then we walk back on these great streets with shady trees, big old buildings and lots of embassies (Vietnam, Turkey, Austria, etc.)
We get back to Recoleta and walk a bit before calling it a night after our last day in Buenos Aires. I thing we’ve done all the main tourist sights here and have now started appreciating just being in Buenos Aires (and enjoying our nice hotel!)
Thursday, January 26, 2012
Buenos Aires - Museo Evita
Thursday, January 26th, 2012
Today we get up at 10:30 because we need to check out of our hotel room by 11. The hotel shower is a small square and you can’t turn around in it. We are so hot and when we finally open our door, the cool air from the hall rushes in… We’ve missed the 8:30am group breakfast and by the time we check out, we run into Catherine and Scott but everyone else has gone. We decide to explore this part of the city a bit more before changing hotels as its on Avenida Florida which is the major shopping area.
We go to the Gallerias mall and get some coffee for breakfast and I bought a souvenier coffee mug with a llama in a wooly hat on it. The company is from Salta, Argentina and although we didn’t go there, it’s an image that will remind me of South America with all the llamas and all of the wooly hats!
We walk around a bit more and even pass a Staples store so we have to go in and check it out. The employees are wearing ‘Back to School’ shirts. We find a street full of great natural food cafes and delis.
Then we take a taxi to Recoleta and check into the Howard Johnson Boutique Spa Hotel (recommended by Leo!). They are doing a bit of renovation so we get a $355 room for $100 and it’s fantastic and there’s no noise from the renovation. We get a welcome drink and a nice, big room.
We check out our new neighbourhood and take the metro to Barrio Norte (past another Staples) and get off at Plaza Italia and walk to the Museo Evita.
It’s a little museum in a house that the Eva Peron Foundation owns and it has videos, historic photos, books, old posters and newspaper headlines and even some of her wardrobe (dresses, shoes, hats and handbags) on display. I found the videos really interesting as it shows footage from her rallies, Rainbow Tour, opening of Cuidad Infantil, orphanages, nursing school, homes for the elderly and even her funeral. I also didn’t realize how significant October 17th was.
Evita's Life
There’s a short overview of her life which is expanded on at the museum: http://museoevita.org/en/
The fifth child of Juana Ibarguren and Juan Duarte, Eva Duarte was born on May 7, 1919 in Los Toldos, province of Buenos Aires, where she spent her first childhood years. When in 1930 her father passed away the family moved to Junín. It was at this early age when her calling for declamation and theater started to surface. In October 1934, Evita traveled to Buenos Aires in the company of her mother to present herself for an audition at Radio Cultura.
This same year she settled permanently in Buenos Aires, to fully dedicate herself to her artistic career. She succeeded in working with theater companies run by the most important theater directors of the time. Her talent in front of microphones of the largest audience radios was consolidated during a period of ten years (1934-1944). In 1944 she was elected President of the Argentine Radio Association.
After four minor roles in different motion pictures, she was assigned a supporting role in the movie " La Cabalgata del circo" (1944). A year later (1945), she was given a leading role in the movie " La Pródiga".
On January 15, 1944 a violent earthquake destroyed the city of San Juan, and Juan Domingo Perón, in charge of the Secretariat of Labor and Social Welfare requested the cooperation of the citizenry to provide assistance to the victims. Artists in general, among which Eva Duarte was included, actively participated in national fund raising activities and organized an artistic festival in the Luna Park Stadium. Such was the setting in which Domingo Perón - a colonel at the time - and Eva Duarte - a young artist- started a relationship that was soon to end up in marriage.
Coincidentally, and hand in hand with Perón, Eva was catapulted into the world of politics. The historic events of October 17, 1945 marked the end of her artistic career. On the 22nd of that same month and year, Juan Domingo Perón and María Eva Duarte were legally wedded in the town of Junin. Their union was blessed on December 10, 1945, in the San Francisco church in La Plata, Buenos Aires.
On February 24, 1946, the party ticket headed by general Peron won the elections with 52% of the votes, taking office on June 4 as the President of the Nation, while Eva - wife of the President and leader of the people - defined herself as Eva Perón in her role of the Argentine First Lady and as Evita in her daily work with the poor, the workers and the women.
On June 6, 1947, Eva Perón went on an official tour that lasted practically three months, visiting Spain, Italy, Portugal, France, Switzerland, Monaco, Brazil and Uruguay. Throughout the tour, her program of ceremonies and receptions was permanently combined with visits to workers' neighborhoods and the execution of social work. While offering donations to the victims of a continent devastated by war, she strived to assimilate the European approach to social work. On August 23, 1947 she returned to Buenos Aires, resuming her busy agenda right away.
She immediately undertook the campaign in furtherance of women's voting rights through the radio and press, working jointly with congressmen, delegations and the women enrolled in civic centers. On September 23, 1947, the Law No. 13,010 was enacted, granting political rights to Argentine women.
On June 19, 1948 María Eva Duarte de Perón's Foundation came into being, providing an organizational structure to the work that Eva had been developing since 1946. Conceived to "satisfy the essential needs that would guarantee a dignified life for the less affluent social classes", her actions materialized into the creation of Orphanages, Homes for Senior Citizens, Temporary Homes, the General San Martín Home for Women Employees, the Children's City and Students' City, the School of Nurses, the Hospital Train, the Cooperatives and the Agrarian Reform Plan, as well as the organization of Children and Student Competitions.
Furthermore, the Foundation embarked on a huge construction plan: workers' dwellings, school buildings by means of the Schools 1000 Plan, vacation facilities for children as well as health centers and polyclinic institutions. Direct social aid, through which Evita personally provided solutions to problems associated with housing, health or employment, and the solidarity shown to foreign countries undergoing an emergency situation or catastrophe such as France, Italy, Spain, Peru, Colombia, Venezuela, Egypt, Japan, United States, Israel, among others.
On August 28, 1948, Eva Perón read in the Ministry of Labor the Declaration of Rights of Senior Citizens, enacted two days before and subsequently included in the 1949 Constitution. On July 26, 1949, the First National Assembly of the women's Peronist movement took place in the Nacional Cervantes Theater, giving rise to the Female Peronist Party.
On April 4, 1951 Eva read for the first time the original version of "The Reason for my Life". The book was launched on October 15 of the same year.
On August 22, 1951, in the midst of a massive concentration of people at the 9 de Julio Avenue in the city of Buenos Aires, the Justicialist party's preferred meeting place, the C.G.T. (labor union) and the Female Peronist Party proclaimed their adhesion to the Perón-Eva Perón ticket for the coming elections. A few days after, on August 31, Evita announced through the National Broadcast Network her "irrevocable and definite decision of resigning the privilege with which workers and the people" had honored her. On November 11, 1951 the Perón-Quijano presidential ticket won the elections with 62.49% of the votes, percentage that was attained largely influenced by the recently granted female voting rights.
Eva, seriously ill, was hospitalized and underwent surgery a few days before the elections in the hospital Policlínico Presidente Perón de Avellaneda, where she voted for the first and last time. On November 14, 1951 she left the hospital. Despite her efforts for restarting her activity, the progressive deterioration of her health put a brake to her tasks.
On June 4, 1952, Eva Perón accompanied the President in the ceremony to take the oath for his new term. It was her last appearance in public. On Julie 26, 1952, after suffering an excruciating agony, María Duarte de Perón died at the age of 33 in the Presidential Residence in Buenos Aires.
The crying reached the streets, showed it self in endless rows and accompanied the wake which lasted until August 11. For fourteen days, Argentina and its neighboring nations run out of flowers. More than two million people were present to bid her farewell. The carriage with the coffin was pulled by workers from the General Workers Confederation, in a procession whose black and white images continue to strike us with the pain, the number of people, and the history they convey.
That woman, who at the time of her death weighed 34 kilos, and who ceased being real to become a myth, was a controversial woman: loved by some –who saw her as a saint– and hated furiously by others –who believed her to be greedy and without scruples. Never ignored. Strong, intelligent, full of passion.
Her final journey remained, the calvary traveled by her embalmed body, which was first given the funeral honors reserved for heads of State, even when Evita never held any official position, and was later housed at the seat of the Central Workers Confederation until 1955, when Perón was ousted and Evita's body was sequestered by the military dictators of the time. From there, the coffin toured the city in a truck for over one year. However, mysteriously enough, flowers and candles were always found at those places where the truck was parked.
Her body was mutilated and desecrated. For fear of the people's reaction if she was made to disappear, the body was shipped to Italy. She was buried under a false name, María Maggi de Magistris, for fourteen years, at Maggiore cemetery, in Milano. In 1971, her body was returned to Perón in Madrid, who kept it at his residency. It arrived in Argentina in 1974 and for two years stayed at the Presidential Residency. Finally, since 1976, it rests in peace at the family grave, in Recoleta cemetery.
Today we get up at 10:30 because we need to check out of our hotel room by 11. The hotel shower is a small square and you can’t turn around in it. We are so hot and when we finally open our door, the cool air from the hall rushes in… We’ve missed the 8:30am group breakfast and by the time we check out, we run into Catherine and Scott but everyone else has gone. We decide to explore this part of the city a bit more before changing hotels as its on Avenida Florida which is the major shopping area.
We go to the Gallerias mall and get some coffee for breakfast and I bought a souvenier coffee mug with a llama in a wooly hat on it. The company is from Salta, Argentina and although we didn’t go there, it’s an image that will remind me of South America with all the llamas and all of the wooly hats!
We walk around a bit more and even pass a Staples store so we have to go in and check it out. The employees are wearing ‘Back to School’ shirts. We find a street full of great natural food cafes and delis.
Then we take a taxi to Recoleta and check into the Howard Johnson Boutique Spa Hotel (recommended by Leo!). They are doing a bit of renovation so we get a $355 room for $100 and it’s fantastic and there’s no noise from the renovation. We get a welcome drink and a nice, big room.
We check out our new neighbourhood and take the metro to Barrio Norte (past another Staples) and get off at Plaza Italia and walk to the Museo Evita.
It’s a little museum in a house that the Eva Peron Foundation owns and it has videos, historic photos, books, old posters and newspaper headlines and even some of her wardrobe (dresses, shoes, hats and handbags) on display. I found the videos really interesting as it shows footage from her rallies, Rainbow Tour, opening of Cuidad Infantil, orphanages, nursing school, homes for the elderly and even her funeral. I also didn’t realize how significant October 17th was.
Evita's Life
There’s a short overview of her life which is expanded on at the museum: http://museoevita.org/en/
The fifth child of Juana Ibarguren and Juan Duarte, Eva Duarte was born on May 7, 1919 in Los Toldos, province of Buenos Aires, where she spent her first childhood years. When in 1930 her father passed away the family moved to Junín. It was at this early age when her calling for declamation and theater started to surface. In October 1934, Evita traveled to Buenos Aires in the company of her mother to present herself for an audition at Radio Cultura.
This same year she settled permanently in Buenos Aires, to fully dedicate herself to her artistic career. She succeeded in working with theater companies run by the most important theater directors of the time. Her talent in front of microphones of the largest audience radios was consolidated during a period of ten years (1934-1944). In 1944 she was elected President of the Argentine Radio Association.
After four minor roles in different motion pictures, she was assigned a supporting role in the movie " La Cabalgata del circo" (1944). A year later (1945), she was given a leading role in the movie " La Pródiga".
On January 15, 1944 a violent earthquake destroyed the city of San Juan, and Juan Domingo Perón, in charge of the Secretariat of Labor and Social Welfare requested the cooperation of the citizenry to provide assistance to the victims. Artists in general, among which Eva Duarte was included, actively participated in national fund raising activities and organized an artistic festival in the Luna Park Stadium. Such was the setting in which Domingo Perón - a colonel at the time - and Eva Duarte - a young artist- started a relationship that was soon to end up in marriage.
Coincidentally, and hand in hand with Perón, Eva was catapulted into the world of politics. The historic events of October 17, 1945 marked the end of her artistic career. On the 22nd of that same month and year, Juan Domingo Perón and María Eva Duarte were legally wedded in the town of Junin. Their union was blessed on December 10, 1945, in the San Francisco church in La Plata, Buenos Aires.
On February 24, 1946, the party ticket headed by general Peron won the elections with 52% of the votes, taking office on June 4 as the President of the Nation, while Eva - wife of the President and leader of the people - defined herself as Eva Perón in her role of the Argentine First Lady and as Evita in her daily work with the poor, the workers and the women.
On June 6, 1947, Eva Perón went on an official tour that lasted practically three months, visiting Spain, Italy, Portugal, France, Switzerland, Monaco, Brazil and Uruguay. Throughout the tour, her program of ceremonies and receptions was permanently combined with visits to workers' neighborhoods and the execution of social work. While offering donations to the victims of a continent devastated by war, she strived to assimilate the European approach to social work. On August 23, 1947 she returned to Buenos Aires, resuming her busy agenda right away.
She immediately undertook the campaign in furtherance of women's voting rights through the radio and press, working jointly with congressmen, delegations and the women enrolled in civic centers. On September 23, 1947, the Law No. 13,010 was enacted, granting political rights to Argentine women.
On June 19, 1948 María Eva Duarte de Perón's Foundation came into being, providing an organizational structure to the work that Eva had been developing since 1946. Conceived to "satisfy the essential needs that would guarantee a dignified life for the less affluent social classes", her actions materialized into the creation of Orphanages, Homes for Senior Citizens, Temporary Homes, the General San Martín Home for Women Employees, the Children's City and Students' City, the School of Nurses, the Hospital Train, the Cooperatives and the Agrarian Reform Plan, as well as the organization of Children and Student Competitions.
Furthermore, the Foundation embarked on a huge construction plan: workers' dwellings, school buildings by means of the Schools 1000 Plan, vacation facilities for children as well as health centers and polyclinic institutions. Direct social aid, through which Evita personally provided solutions to problems associated with housing, health or employment, and the solidarity shown to foreign countries undergoing an emergency situation or catastrophe such as France, Italy, Spain, Peru, Colombia, Venezuela, Egypt, Japan, United States, Israel, among others.
On August 28, 1948, Eva Perón read in the Ministry of Labor the Declaration of Rights of Senior Citizens, enacted two days before and subsequently included in the 1949 Constitution. On July 26, 1949, the First National Assembly of the women's Peronist movement took place in the Nacional Cervantes Theater, giving rise to the Female Peronist Party.
On April 4, 1951 Eva read for the first time the original version of "The Reason for my Life". The book was launched on October 15 of the same year.
On August 22, 1951, in the midst of a massive concentration of people at the 9 de Julio Avenue in the city of Buenos Aires, the Justicialist party's preferred meeting place, the C.G.T. (labor union) and the Female Peronist Party proclaimed their adhesion to the Perón-Eva Perón ticket for the coming elections. A few days after, on August 31, Evita announced through the National Broadcast Network her "irrevocable and definite decision of resigning the privilege with which workers and the people" had honored her. On November 11, 1951 the Perón-Quijano presidential ticket won the elections with 62.49% of the votes, percentage that was attained largely influenced by the recently granted female voting rights.
Eva, seriously ill, was hospitalized and underwent surgery a few days before the elections in the hospital Policlínico Presidente Perón de Avellaneda, where she voted for the first and last time. On November 14, 1951 she left the hospital. Despite her efforts for restarting her activity, the progressive deterioration of her health put a brake to her tasks.
On June 4, 1952, Eva Perón accompanied the President in the ceremony to take the oath for his new term. It was her last appearance in public. On Julie 26, 1952, after suffering an excruciating agony, María Duarte de Perón died at the age of 33 in the Presidential Residence in Buenos Aires.
The crying reached the streets, showed it self in endless rows and accompanied the wake which lasted until August 11. For fourteen days, Argentina and its neighboring nations run out of flowers. More than two million people were present to bid her farewell. The carriage with the coffin was pulled by workers from the General Workers Confederation, in a procession whose black and white images continue to strike us with the pain, the number of people, and the history they convey.
That woman, who at the time of her death weighed 34 kilos, and who ceased being real to become a myth, was a controversial woman: loved by some –who saw her as a saint– and hated furiously by others –who believed her to be greedy and without scruples. Never ignored. Strong, intelligent, full of passion.
Her final journey remained, the calvary traveled by her embalmed body, which was first given the funeral honors reserved for heads of State, even when Evita never held any official position, and was later housed at the seat of the Central Workers Confederation until 1955, when Perón was ousted and Evita's body was sequestered by the military dictators of the time. From there, the coffin toured the city in a truck for over one year. However, mysteriously enough, flowers and candles were always found at those places where the truck was parked.
Her body was mutilated and desecrated. For fear of the people's reaction if she was made to disappear, the body was shipped to Italy. She was buried under a false name, María Maggi de Magistris, for fourteen years, at Maggiore cemetery, in Milano. In 1971, her body was returned to Perón in Madrid, who kept it at his residency. It arrived in Argentina in 1974 and for two years stayed at the Presidential Residency. Finally, since 1976, it rests in peace at the family grave, in Recoleta cemetery.
Wednesday, January 25, 2012
Ushuaia - Glacier Martial
Wednesday, January 25th, 2012
We get up at 6am, shower and are at breakfast by the time it opens at 7. We need to leave by 7:45 to get to the bus stop around 8/8:15 to buy our round trip bus ticket to Tierra del Fuego National Park (for 85 pesos). The first bus leaves at 8:30am and then roughly every 2 hours after that. We talk with the guys who did the coastal walk yesterday and hear mixed opinions. Most people enjoyed it, but it is a walk along the coast through vegetation that is similar to the west coast US (like Monterrey, California) and Canada. Hmmm….
Because we live on the harbor and can do coastal walks when we’re back in Sydney, we decide to skip Tierra del Fuego National Park (although I did want to get a passport stamp from the post office at Fin del Mundo where Route 3 ends), and go up to Glaciar Martial National Park and trek around the glacier (because we don’t have glaciers in Sydney). Because we can take a taxi to the start at anytime, we decide to go back to bed and sleep from around 8am to 10:30am and we have to get up to check out by 11.
At 11, we take a taxi up to the ski centre on the top of the town. From here, you can take the aerosilla (chairlift) to the top of the slope and there are a few treks you can do through the forest, to viewpoints, to the glacier, etc. There’s a really great view of Ushuaia and the Beagle Channel in both directions (to the right is Chile).
After our trek we take a taxi into town for lunch around 2:30pm and eat at Bodegon Fueguino which is in a century old Guegian house with sheepskin benches. I have a steak and mashed pumpkin and Mike has spinach filled callonis with walnut-pesto sauce and the roja (amber) ale from Beagle microbrewery (the southernmost microbrewery in the world).
After lunch, we walk around Ushuaia a bit more to check out the town, harbour, museums and waterside before heading back to our hotel for our 6:30pm departure.
At 6:30pm we all leave for the Ushuaia International Airport. On the way, Dave from Colorado exclaims that he used a toilet where people put their used toilet paper in the trashcan. He’s shocked at seeing it and we have to explain that that’s how it is in most of South America, and hasn’t he been doing that for the last 18 days? Nope- completely missed that… I had to laugh. Oh, and check out this guy with his mate kit going through security!
We have a 7:50pm Aerolineas flight to Buenos Aires and luckily it’s a direct flight (and doesn’t stop in El Calafate). Beautiful views from the plane!
We arrive in BA around 11:15, get our bags and transfer to our hotel. It’s the same hotel the group stayed in on the first night – the Carsson – which is supposed to be a 4 star hotel (and probably was 20+ years ago) but we get a non-renovated room and it’s horrible. Gross carpet, small, low, uncomfortable bed with dirty pillows and a window that opens into an old elevator shaft (so we have to shut it)… and it is really hot here, and our A/C isn’t working. We end up falling asleep and although we’re sweating we sleep through the night.
We get up at 6am, shower and are at breakfast by the time it opens at 7. We need to leave by 7:45 to get to the bus stop around 8/8:15 to buy our round trip bus ticket to Tierra del Fuego National Park (for 85 pesos). The first bus leaves at 8:30am and then roughly every 2 hours after that. We talk with the guys who did the coastal walk yesterday and hear mixed opinions. Most people enjoyed it, but it is a walk along the coast through vegetation that is similar to the west coast US (like Monterrey, California) and Canada. Hmmm….
Because we live on the harbor and can do coastal walks when we’re back in Sydney, we decide to skip Tierra del Fuego National Park (although I did want to get a passport stamp from the post office at Fin del Mundo where Route 3 ends), and go up to Glaciar Martial National Park and trek around the glacier (because we don’t have glaciers in Sydney). Because we can take a taxi to the start at anytime, we decide to go back to bed and sleep from around 8am to 10:30am and we have to get up to check out by 11.
At 11, we take a taxi up to the ski centre on the top of the town. From here, you can take the aerosilla (chairlift) to the top of the slope and there are a few treks you can do through the forest, to viewpoints, to the glacier, etc. There’s a really great view of Ushuaia and the Beagle Channel in both directions (to the right is Chile).
After our trek we take a taxi into town for lunch around 2:30pm and eat at Bodegon Fueguino which is in a century old Guegian house with sheepskin benches. I have a steak and mashed pumpkin and Mike has spinach filled callonis with walnut-pesto sauce and the roja (amber) ale from Beagle microbrewery (the southernmost microbrewery in the world).
After lunch, we walk around Ushuaia a bit more to check out the town, harbour, museums and waterside before heading back to our hotel for our 6:30pm departure.
At 6:30pm we all leave for the Ushuaia International Airport. On the way, Dave from Colorado exclaims that he used a toilet where people put their used toilet paper in the trashcan. He’s shocked at seeing it and we have to explain that that’s how it is in most of South America, and hasn’t he been doing that for the last 18 days? Nope- completely missed that… I had to laugh. Oh, and check out this guy with his mate kit going through security!
We have a 7:50pm Aerolineas flight to Buenos Aires and luckily it’s a direct flight (and doesn’t stop in El Calafate). Beautiful views from the plane!
We arrive in BA around 11:15, get our bags and transfer to our hotel. It’s the same hotel the group stayed in on the first night – the Carsson – which is supposed to be a 4 star hotel (and probably was 20+ years ago) but we get a non-renovated room and it’s horrible. Gross carpet, small, low, uncomfortable bed with dirty pillows and a window that opens into an old elevator shaft (so we have to shut it)… and it is really hot here, and our A/C isn’t working. We end up falling asleep and although we’re sweating we sleep through the night.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
































































